Auvers sur Oise -- Vincent

My last day in Paris, I traveled to Auvers sur Oise. This is the last place that Vincent lived before he died. Most people believe, from the stories they have heard, read and been taught, that he committed suicide. It is now believed that he was murdered. A book on my list to read fully is Van Gogh, the Life by Steven Naifeh and Gregory White Smith.

I started it, was pulled in by the beautiful writing, but didn't have time to read it all before leaving in this journey. At the very end in the appendix, there is a section about his death and what research has uncovered.

The short version is that there was a teenager from a local wealthy family who teased Vincent mercilessly. Vincent didn't try to stop him,  he was already too tortured mentally, and only found solace in drink and paint. On the day that he was shot, it is thought that Vincent went out to paint, was actually inspired and feeling pretty good, the young man met up with him and teased him with a old gun that he had been given. They suspect it went off by accident and Vincent was shot.

The first part I wrote riding the train to Auvers sur Oise. It was cool and cloudy.

After the challenge of the second train never arriving,  I caught an Uber the rest of the way.  The driver dropped me off in front of the signs showing the places to visit; just a few steps from Vincent's room.

In front of the building sits a small table with two chairs two glasses and a bottle of red wine.

The town was mostly quiet except there were at least three school groups of children taking tours. As I sat across the street from the house, the last group passed by. They were happily singing a tune skipping along.

The tour of Vincent's room was interesting. They tell the story that he committed suicide. The room has been empty for 126 years. No photographs were allowed. But they told the story of a man who committed suicide. I wonder if that is a better sell for the visit than the possibility that someone shot him by accident?

The highlight was the last three stops on the walk. The church he painted, the wheat field and the cemetery where he and his brother are buried.

From the Musee D'Orsay

The Church in Auvers s/Oise

 

Vincent and his brother are buried side by side. Theo died 6 months after Vincent 

These three spots made me feel like I was truly walking in his footsteps. It was a beautiful day. Beautiful clouds, the sun shining, and no major tours of people making selfie photos in front of each location. I guess not completely walking in his foot steps as I visited his grave, but peaceful and hi paintings came to life for me.